Your Questions, Answered

  • Desexing is a safe and effective way to improve your pet’s health and behaviour — and it plays a vital role in reducing pet overpopulation. We recommend desexing for all cats and dogs not intended for breeding.

    Population Control

    Each year, thousands of unwanted puppies and kittens are surrendered to shelters — many of which are euthanised due to overcrowding. Desexing your pet helps prevent unplanned litters and reduces the burden on rescue organisations.

    Behavioural Benefits

    Desexing can reduce or eliminate unwanted behaviours such as:

    • Roaming, marking, and humping in male pets

    • Vocalising and behavioural changes in females during heat cycles

    • Aggression and territorial fighting in both sexes

    Health Benefits

    Desexing offers lifelong health advantages:

    • Males: Eliminates testicular cancer and reduces prostate issues

    • Females: Significantly reduces the risk of mammary cancer and removes the risk of uterine infections, ovarian and uterine cancers

    • Early desexing offers additional protection from hormone-related health problems

     

    Recommended Desexing Ages

    Cats

    • 8–12 weeks old is ideal, as cats can become sexually mature as early as 5 months

    • Early desexing is safe and helps prevent both unwanted litters and undesirable behaviours

    Dogs

    • Small Breeds (under 9kg): Recommended around 5–6 months of age

    • Large Breeds: Often recommended between 9–12 months, depending on breed and development

    Always consult with our vets for personalised advice based on your pet’s breed, size, and health status.

     

    The Procedure & What to Expect

    We perform routine desexing surgeries Monday to Friday. Please book at least a few days in advance to ensure availability.

    The Day of Surgery

    • Fasting: No food after 8pm the night before. Water is fine overnight.

    • Drop-off: Between 8:30am and 9:00am

    • Pick-up: Usually between 4:30pm and 5:00pm the same day

    Our team performs hundreds of successful desexing procedures each year. With proper aftercare, pets typically recover quickly and comfortably.

    Our Standards of Care

    We pride ourselves on delivering high-quality care  Here’s what sets us apart:

    • Experienced team: Your pet is monitored throughout surgery by a qualified veterinary nurse and veterinarian

    • Modern facilities: We use state-of-the-art anaesthetic monitoring and surgical equipment

    • Sterile protocols: All surgical kits are autoclaved before each procedure

    • IV Fluids: Are included for all dogs and female cats ( at discounted rates)

    • Top-tier medications: Every pet receives antibiotics and pain relief

    • Dissolvable sutures: No need for stitch removal

    • Comfortable recovery: Warm, clean kennels and regular post-op checks

    Recommended Add-Ons

    • Pre-Anaesthetic Blood Test: Especially important for older pets to check organ health

    • Microchipping & Vaccination: Can be done during surgery for convenience

    Cost

    Desexing prices vary depending on your pet’s species, sex, age, and weight.
    Please contact us for an accurate quote. We’re happy to provide a breakdown and discuss any optional services.

    If you have any questions or would like to book your pet in, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re here to help you make the best choice for your pet’s health and wellbeing.

  • Dental Care for Your Pet: Essential for Health and Well-being

    Just like humans, pets need regular dental care to stay healthy. Poor dental hygiene in animals can lead to serious health problems, affecting not only their teeth but their overall well-being. Common dental issues like periodontal disease, tooth decay, and gum infections can cause pain, difficulty eating, and even lead to systemic infections affecting the heart, liver, or kidneys. We offer FREE dental checks all year round.

    Why Regular Dental Care is Crucial:

    • Periodontal Disease: This is one of the most common dental conditions in pets. It can cause painful gum infections and tooth loss, and if left untreated, it may lead to more severe health problems.

    • Tooth Decay and Infection: Just like humans, pets can suffer from cavities or abscesses that cause discomfort and may result in tooth loss if not addressed in time.

    • Gum Disease: Swollen, red gums or bad breath are early signs of gum disease, which can progress into more serious conditions, leading to systemic issues.

    • Heart, Kidney, and Liver Problems: Bacteria from untreated dental infections can travel through the bloodstream and damage vital organs, including the heart, liver, and kidneys.

    Comprehensive Dental Services:

    We offer a full dental care package to ensure your pet’s teeth and gums remain healthy. Our service includes a thorough dental examination and a complete set of dental X-rays, helping us to spot any hidden issues below the surface, such as root infections or bone loss, before they become serious. This is done under a General Anesthetic.

    What’s Included in the Price:

    • A full dental exam

    • A complete set of dental X-rays

    • Professional cleaning and scaling

    • Treatment or extraction of any problem teeth (if necessary at an additional cost)

    Take proactive steps today to protect your pet’s health and comfort. Schedule a dental check-up and keep their smile bright and healthy!

     

  • Essential for Your Cat’s Health

    Vaccinating your cat is crucial, especially if they spend time outdoors and interact with other cats. Vaccination is safe, virtually painless, and protects against several serious and potentially fatal diseases. Each vaccination is also a health check, allowing us to thoroughly examine your cat and address any concerns.

    F3 Vaccine: Protects against Feline Parvovirus (affecting the bone marrow) and the pathogens that cause “Cat Flu” (Feline Herpesvirus 1 and Feline Calicivirus).

    Kittens: Receive F3 vaccines at 8 and 12 weeks, with a booster every 12 months thereafter.

    Adult Cats: Cats over 12 weeks that haven’t been vaccinated need two F3 doses, spaced 4 weeks apart. After this, they require an annual booster.

    F4 Vaccine: Includes F3 protection plus a vaccine for Feline Chlamydia. While this vaccine is available, we typically recommend the F3 as the F4 can cause side effects that may outweigh the risk of Chlamydia.

    Additional Vaccines:

    • Feline Leukemia Virus: Common in multi-cat households or breeding cats, this virus affects the immune system and is spread through saliva. It requires two doses, 4 weeks apart.

    • Feline “AIDS”: A progressive immune system failure spread by cat fights. This vaccine requires three doses, 2 weeks apart. Cats over 6 months old need a test before vaccination.

    Vaccination is recommended annually for all cats. Regular health checks ensure your cat stays in optimal health. As vaccination technology evolves, we may update our recommendations, so check in with your vet for the latest advice.

  • Choosing a Kitten

    Although choosing a kitten may appear a much simpler task than choosing a dog there are some important considerations to take into account. Like dogs, the different breeds of cats have different personalities that will affect your interaction with them. Some are playful and more needy of attention, while others seem more aloof and independent. Your lifestyle, type of home you live in and amount of spare time you have may make certian breeds more suitable than others based on their personality and needs alone. It is also wise to remember that even kittens have very sharp claws and may not mix too well with young children in your home. The physical characteristics of a cat, especially their coat length, are also important. Long haired cats do require significant brushing and grooming. While short haired “moggies” tend to be lower maintenance and thrive in the outdoors. You should also keep in mind that certain breeds may have breed associated disease problems that could affect your kitten in the future. Always remember that owning a cat requires responsibility and care to ensure your kitten stays healthy, you remain sane and your furniture remains intact! A good place to start your search after these considerations and some research is the RSPCA.

    Socialisation and Play

    It is very important to play, handle and interact with your kitten from an early age. Research is beginning to show that the key socialisation period is from 2 to 7 weeks of age. In this period it is essential for kittens to interact positively with a range of people, other pets, visitors and environmental stimuli that they will encounter during their lives. Without these interactions kittens can grow up to be fearful or aggressive and may develop behavioural problems later in life. You should play with your new kitten regularly, handle it frequently and expose it to all kinds of objects, noises and people in a controlled and friendly way. It is a good idea to provide a carpet covered scratching post and litter trays to direct these behaviours towards the correct areas and away from your furniture and floors. Reward your kitten for scratching the post and using the litter tray with praise, interaction and food rewards. Even after the 7 week mark you should continue to expand your kitten’s experiences over its first year of life by gradually introducing it to new sights, sounds, smells and people. Kittens should be supervised whilst outside and ideally be kept inside until after their first vaccination. Time outside can increase after they are fully vaccinated, but should remain supervised until you are confident your kitten can look after itself. You should always keep your cat inside at night as this is when most fights and accidents occur. A well socialised kitten grows into an outgoing happy cat, which is best for the owners and for us when they visit the vet.

    Worming

    Intestinal worms slow the growth of young animals and in severe cases can even result in death. Kittens should be wormed at 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 weeks of age. It is easiest to use a worming syrup in younger animals and switch to worm tablets as they grow. A good quality all wormer should give protection against roundworms, hookworms and tape worms. After 12 weeks of age kittens should be wormed every 3 months for life. We stock the necessary tablets and syrup. We also have a new worming product, called Profender®, that is applied directly to the skin and avoids the stress of giving tablets to your cat.

    Vaccination

    We recommend that kittens are vaccinated at 8 and 12 weeks of age. We use an F3 vaccine (feline 3) that provides protection against 3 pathogens. These pathogens are Feline Parvo Virus (a disease affecting the immune system), Feline Herpes Virus (a component of ‘Cat Flu’) and Feline Calici Virus (another component of ‘Cat Flu’). There are other vaccinations that we can give your cat that largely depend on its intended lifestyle. The main ones being against 2 viral immune system diseases, Feline Leukemia and FIV (‘Feline AIDS’, a disease spread by cat fights). Please ask us for information on these at your appointment. At the time of each vaccination we also give your kitten a thorough physical examination and discuss with you its needs in early life.

    Microchipping and Registration

    All new cats need to be registered with the Local Council. As of May 2007 they need to be registered by the time they are 3 months of age, and they need to be microchipped before they can be registered. We recommend that kittens are microchipped at the 12 week vaccination when they are a little bigger and less stressed by the procedure. As well as now being a legal requirement in Wangaratta, having your pet microchipped gives it the best chance of getting home quickly if it is ever lost, anywhere in Australia!

    Feeding

    In most cases your kitten will have been weaned onto solid foods and off its mother’s milk by the time they come to your home. We recommend that kittens are fed a mix of wet and dry Kitten Specific commercial food. The pet food companies have undertaken years of research to ensure that their foods contain every nutrient that cats need. As kittens are growing rapidly and expending a lot of energy it is essential that you use a Kitten food, as these are specially formulated to have a higher energy and protein content than adult foods. We recommend that kittens stay on Kitten food until they are fully grown (about 12 months old). It is important to switch to an adult food at this time to avoid any problems with obesity. While your kitten is young you should also introduce them to uncooked (very important) chicken wings so that they learn that these are real food. Feeding uncooked chicken wings a few times a week throughout life provides exercise for teeth and gums and helps to prevent dental disease. Giving Kitten milk occasionally up to 12 weeks of age is acceptable, but refrain from ever giving cow’s milk as many cats are lactose intolerant.

    Flea Prevention

    Flea prevention should begin at 12 weeks of age and continue once a month for life. The most effective products are Advantage® and Frontline® as they continue killing fleas for a month from the day of application. They also kill fleas, flea larvae and flea eggs in the kitten’s environment. It is especially important to treat cats in your household because they are usually the most indepependent pet and in their adventures are exposed to more animals and their territories where they can catch the fleas and bring them home. You should also wash the kitten’s bedding every few weeks to leave it clean and free of flea eggs and larvae.

    Desexing

    We recommend that all cats that are not going to be breeding animals are desexed at around 6 months of age. Desexing reduces the number of unwanted kittens that are either dumped or surrendered to the RSPCA. In cats it also prevents sexual behaviours that can be very noisy and distracting at night for the owners and the neighbours! Thirdly there are medical benefits. Desexing a female cat entirely removes the potential for ovarian cancer and uterine infections. Desexing a male cat removes the potential for testicular cancer and can reduce aggression therefore avoiding future vet bills associated with cat fights. Desexing operations are performed routinely on all weekdays and in the vast majority of cases animals are able to go home the evening of their surgery. Recovery is very quick and complications are few.

  • Protect Your Dog and Community

    Vaccinating your dog is essential to prevent deadly and debilitating diseases. Not only does it protect your dog, but it also helps reduce the spread of infectious diseases within the wider animal community. Each vaccination appointment includes a thorough health check, allowing us to address any concerns you may have.

    C3 Vaccine: Protects against Parvovirus (fatal to puppies), Infectious Hepatitis, and Distemper Virus (a neurological disease).
    C5 Vaccine: Includes C3 protection plus coverage for Canine Cough (Kennel Cough), which is required for boarding kennels and obedience clubs.

    Puppies: Start vaccinations at 6 weeks, with boosters every month until 12 weeks (usually C3 for the first two, then C5). After 12 weeks, a single vaccine provides 12 months of protection.

    Adult Dogs: C3 vaccine every 3 years; Canine Cough vaccination annually. The annual heartworm injection is given alongside vaccination.

    We recommend an annual health check to ensure your dog’s well-being and address any issues. Vaccination plans are tailored to each dog’s needs, environment, and health, so discuss the best schedule with your vet.

  • Choosing a Puppy

    A dog brings much joy to your life with its loyalty and companionship. However, there is also a certain amount of work, training and expense that goes into looking after your new best friend. This makes the decision to get a new puppy one that requires serious thought. Once the decision has been made it is essential to do some research into the breeds to ensure you choose one that is compatible with your circumstances. Important factors to consider include the size of your yard, your family circumstances (especially young children) and the amount of spare time you have to interact with and exercise your pet. Having said this stereotypes do not always ring true and animals can go against the grain of their breed’s expected traits. You should be prepared for some hiccups along the way, but the commitment you made in your original decision to get a new dog should remain strong. With all this in mind there are many places to get your new puppy. We suggest that you try the RSPCA as not only are the prices reasonable, but you are saving a little pup from a shakey future.

    Socialisation and Puppy Preschool

    It is now recognized that the period from 6 – 16 weeks of age is the key socialisation

    period for puppies. Essentially they use their experiences during this time as a blueprint for what is “normal” in their world. It is therefore important to expose your puppy to as many stimuli as possible during this period. Especially important is controlled exposure to noises like vacuum cleaners, mowers and thunder that they may otherwise develop phobias to in adult life. Of equal importance in this time is socialisation with other dogs. We suggest that pups are kept isolated to your home until 8 weeks of age when they have their first vaccination. After this time it is acceptable for your pup to visit friends as long as their dogs are up to date with their vaccinations. It is safest to keep your pup away from parks and public places until after their second vaccination because you cannot guarantee that the dogs they meet there are vaccinated and some viruses can live for up to a year in parks. A great way to socialise your puppy is through our Puppy Preschool. Over 4 sessions you will learn a lot about looking after your pup, and in the meantime your pup will be socialising with other pups and learning some simple obedience too.

    Worming

    Puppies should be wormed at 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 weeks of age. It is easiest to use a worming syrup in younger pups and switch to worm tablets as they grow. A good quality all wormer should give protection against roundworms, whipworms, hookworms and tape worms. After 12 weeks of age pups should be wormed monthly until they are 6 months old. After this, worming should be done every 3 months for life. We stock the necessary tablets/syrup.

    Vaccination

    All dogs should be vaccinated in order to prevent several deadly and debilitating infectious diseases. Vaccination is very safe and not only protects your own dog, but also helps to reduce the prevalence of infectious diseases in the wider animal community. Every vaccination appointment is also a veterinary consultation so we perform a thorough physical examination to check your dog’s health and we can look at any problems you may have noticed.
    C3 Vaccine – Canine 3 – protects against Parvovirus (a serious gastroenteritis that is frequently fatal in puppies), Infectious Hepatitis Virus (a liver disease) and Distemper Virus (a neurological disease).
    C5 Vaccine – Canine 5 – protects against the above three viruses and also the two pathogens involved in Canine Cough (aka Kennel Cough, a painful upper respiratory infection). Vaccination for Canine Cough is a requirement for acceptance into most boarding kennels and dog obedience clubs.
    Puppies – should first be vaccinated at 6 weeks of age, and then receive a booster each month until they are over 12 weeks of age. Most puppies will therefore receive three initial vaccinations. Usually the first two are a C3, and the final is a C5.
    Puppies over 12 weeks of age only require a single vaccination to be protected for 12 months.

    Microchipping and Registration

     All new puppies need to be registered with the local council. A new law has been passed recently in Wangaratta stating that registration must take place by the time the animal is 3 months old. It also states that to be registered they must be microchipped. We recommend microchipping at the 12 week vaccination visit as the animals are a little bigger and therefore the procedure is less stressful. In addition to the legality, microchipping is also a responsible thing to do as it ensures that if your dog is ever lost it will be quickly returned to you.

    Heartworm Prevention

    Heartworm is a deadly worm spread from dog to dog by mosquitoes. A recent study showed that 2% of unprotected dogs in Wangaratta were infected. Although this is not a huge number the real issue is that if infected it is a very serious disease. The risk of heartworm also increases if your dog travels to areas of higher prevalence such as along the Murray or along the Victorian coast. Heartworm is easily prevented with either a monthly treatment (tablet or topical) or a once a year injection. We find that most people like the convenience of the once a year injection as it removes the potential for forgetting a monthly treatment. If monthly treatments are to be used we suggest that they begin from the 12 week (3 month) vaccination. The injection is based on body weight and puppies are continually growing so the first injection lasts around 9 months rather than 12. For this reason pups need a combined all wormer/heartwormer tablet at 3, 4 and 5 months of age. They then have their first heartworm injection at 6 months of age. This may seem complicated, but in reality we worm the pup at the 12 week (3 month) vaccination with the combined wormer, then send you home with 2 more tablets to give at the 4 and 5 month mark. The 6 month injection coincides nicely with the pup’s return to us for desexing. The next injection is then given at the first annual vaccination booster (15 months) and following this the yearly vaccination and heartworm injection are synchronised.

    Flea Prevention

    Flea prevention should begin at 12 weeks of age. The most effective products are Advantage® and Frontline® as they continue killing fleas for a month from the day of application. They also kill fleas, flea larvae and flea eggs in the dog’s environment. It is important to treat all the animals in your home, especially cats as they roam, otherwise the unprotected animals will continue to reinfect the others. You should also wash the dog’s bedding every few weeks to leave it clean and free of flea eggs and larvae.

    Desexing

    We recommend that all dogs that are not going to be breeding animals are desexed at around 6 months of age. Desexing reduces the number of unwanted puppies that are either dumped or surrendered to the RSPCA. It can also help to prevent unwanted sexual related behaviours. Thirdly there are medical benefits. Desexing a female dog before her first heat significantly decreases the likelihood of mammary tumours in later life. It also entirely removes the potential for ovarian cancer and uterine infections. Desexing a male dog removes the potential for testicular cancer and also greatly reduces the likelihood of prostate problems in the future. Desexing operations are performed routinely on all weekdays and in the vast majority of cases animals are able to go home the evening of their surgery. Recovery is very quick and complications are few.

    Feeding

    Puppies should be slowly introduced to solid food from about 4 weeks of age. We recommend using a high quality commercial Puppy food as it is specially formulated to contain all the nutrients that a growing puppy needs. It is also higher in protein and energy than adult dog food to supply the greater needs of a fast growing, active pup. You should continue to feed this food until your pup is fully grown (about 12 months old). It may be easier to start with a moist puppy food and gradually introduce dry puppy food over a few weeks. Some dry food in your pup’s diet is essential for healthy teeth and gums. It is a good idea to get some chew toys, like a Kong, that can be packed with food that entertains your pup and exercises their teeth and gums. At about 12 months of age you should change to a high quality Adult dog food as continued feeding of high energy puppy food can cause obesity.

  • Microchipping

    Microchipping puppies and kittens is now required in Wangaratta for registration with the local council. The procedure involves injecting a tiny chip, about the size of a grain of rice, under the skin between the shoulder blades. This chip contains a unique number that is registered in a national database along with your contact details.

    If your pet gets lost, local vets, the RSPCA, or the pound will scan the microchip and use the number to contact you and reunite you with your pet.

    While microchipping is only mandatory for new registrations, we recommend it for all pets as it provides great peace of mind if they ever go missing. The process is quick, painless, and a valuable form of pet insurance.

    A source number is required for  implanting a microchip into a dog or cat born after 1 July 2020. An application fee of $24.50 applies to the registration or renewal of a source number. You will need to apply for this through Animal Welfare Victoria before booking your appointment.

    To help with the added cost that comes with compulsory microchipping we have discounted our microchipping fee.

  • Your pet is likely to encounter lots of other furry friends while out and about, and also the fun bugs they leave behind! Ensure your pet is up to date with their vaccinations at least one month prior to heading off on your holiday. This is important not only to offer them the protection they need, but also if you need to put your dog into a boarding facility while away.   

    Dogs can play host to a number of intestinal parasites, and they don’t even have to meet another dog to pick them up.  We recommend administering a de-worming treatment to your pet prior to your departure to ensure they remain in good health and to reduce the spread of intestinal parasites. Tasmania require dogs to have been administered a hydatid treatment at least 14 days prior to entry to the state.

    Paralysis ticks are commonly found in coastal areas and some bushland and their toxin cause life threatening paralysis of the respiratory and skeletal muscles. Fortunately, parasite prevention such as Bravecto or Nexgard Spectra are effective in producing long lasting protection against ticks. Some ticks can carry blood borne parasites, therefore we recommend the use of a tick repellent collar such as a Soresto collar, in addition to Bravecto or Nexgard Spectra.

    Heartworm is a worm that is spread by mosquitoes and causes potentially fatal disease. Many people incorrectly assume that an intestinal worming treatment will also protect against heartworm, but not all parasite prevention products offer heartworm prevention. Heartworm prevention can be administered as a monthly treatment or annual injection. If administering a monthly treatment, it is important to read the directions closely, as most ‘monthly’ preventatives need to be given every 28 days.

    For more advice on how to safely travel with your pet, Click here.

  • Recently several poultry farms in Euroa, Victoria were found to be infected with a high pathogenicity form of avian influenza, H7N8. Agriculture Victoria has instigated a restricted area around the affected properties. The strain found in Euroa is different than the H5N1 bird flu strain that is impacting other countries outside of Australia, this strain has never been detected within Australia.

    Avian influenza is a highly contagious viral infection of birds, it can result in a variety of symptoms in poultry and wild birds and often result in sudden death in our domestic poultry. Avian influenza is categorised as either low pathogenicity (LPAI) or high pathogenicity (HPAI). ‘Low’ pathogenicity strains of the virus may produce fewer noticeable clinical signs but can still result in some deaths.

    Avian influenza can be spread through saliva, nasal secretions and faeces. Spill over of the virus from wild bids into domestic poultry can occur and may cause disease. Bird flu can also spread via the movement of people, poultry, clothing and equipment.

    The most important sign to be aware of and report is sudden death.
    Other signs that can be associated with bird flu can include:

    • Respiratory signs (noisy or rapid breathing, coughing, sneezing, increased nasal secretions)
    • Conjunctivitis
    • Swelling of the head
    • Purple discolouration of the comb and wattles
    • Rapid decrease in feed and water intake
    • Decreased egg production
    • Ruffled feathers
    • Depression
    • Closed eyes
    • Diarrhoea
    • Nervous signs (twisted neck, inability to stay upright, inability to fly, uncoordinated movement, walking or swimming in circles, partial or full paralysis)

    WHAT CAN YOU DO?
    All bird and poultry owners need to be vigilant and watch for any signs of bird flu within their flocks.
    Avian influenza is a notifiable disease and therefore any suspicion of infection within a flock must be immediately reported.

    Reporting can be done by calling any of the following:
    – Your local veterinary clinic
    – Emergency Animal Disease Hotline (EAD) on 1800 675 888
    – VicEmergency Hotline on 1800 226 226

    Having good biosecurity practices also reduces the risk of disease transmission. Some simple steps you can take are:
    – Practicing good personal hygiene before and after handling poultry (e.g. washing hands).
    – Restricting contact between wild birds and any pet birds or poultry.
    – Ensuring that all equipment, yards and aviaries containing birds are kept clean.
    – Monitor birds for any signs of illness or death.
    – Limit the amount of visitors to your flock.

    For additional biosecurity measures please visit agriculture.vic.gov.au producers for further information.
    For Avian Influenza fact sheet please head to agriculture.vic.gov.au/factsheet or contact us at the clinic if you would like to discuss the health of your flock!

  • It is difficult to describe the feeling a veterinarian has when they’re positioned between the hind legs of a two hundred kilogram bull calf, tasked with a castration and armed with only a steel scalpel blade. Damn vulnerable is a good place to start. Was the sweat that beaded my forehead and stung my eyes from the apprehension or from the relentless Australian sun? I had already performed the sedation and local freezing. Now the first testicle was exposed and ready to be removed.

    The calf was supposedly restrained in the crush… or so I thought. Before the circuitry in my brain could form any real-time connections, I was nose-to-nose with the soon-to-be steer. I grabbed both sides of the crush and climbed monkey-like up the side gates. When I describe just how close I was to having a near-death incident, the half a centimeter between my thumb and forefinger represent the approximated distance between my low-hanging bum and the back of the bull as it charged underneath me.

    Let us rewind a bit. Before beginning the procedure, I had left the back sliding gate of the crush open for my safety. Because there wasn’t a vet gate, the side of the crush did not have a release and the head gate was known to be dodgy. And this was a brand new crush, but the type you would order at a 50% discount from Temu or Wish. Now, standing perched above the crush, I watched my bovine patient scamper down the paddock with one testicle swinging beneath him like a fleshy pink Yo-Yo.

    I climbed down, fuming. I practically threw my bloody scalpel blade at my bewildered student assistant and stomped down the paddock to capture the escapee.

    After some gentle persuasion, I convinced my patient to return into the crush. Then my colleagues, the stock handler, and I proceeded to swiftly finish the job. We extracted the second testicle soon after. If there exists an entry for “fastest calf castration” in the Guinness World Records, you can bet your boots we overtook it with our second bull calf.

    Alright, kids, now if some kind of moral or lesson can be gleamed out of this harrowing experience, it is that every farm should possess a livestock crush—ideally one that wasn’t purchase from The Reject Shop and doubles as a euthanasia contraption for your local veterinarian.

    Oh, but the benefits go far beyond your vet living past the age of 28!

    Here are a few:

    • Improved animal health. By using proper equipment, you can minimize bruising, injection site damage, and stress. Negative effects from stress cause lower conception rates, reduce vaccination effectiveness, and reduce immune and rumen functions

    • Cattle feel safe and less pressured when restrained properly

    • Handlers feel safer, and avoid injuring themselves

    • Increases economic viability of your farm

    What does a good quality crush have?

    • Appropriate footing to prevent slipping

    • A reliable head gate: guards to prevent break outs, varying head capacity (from calf to bull), and self-catching abilities

    • Good accessibility to the animal—upper and lower side gates with a release feature

    • Backdrop gate

    • Palpation cage

    Ask your veterinarian for some suggestions before purchasing new or used handling systems for your farm.

    Written by: Dr. Monica Kunze

  • Horses are naturally social animals and spend 50-70% of their time grazing pastures, with the rest of their time spend drinking, resting and grooming. Where horses are required to be stabled, their environmental conditions are often very different to those in which they have evolved. The restricted access to pasture and normal environment in stabled horses has been linked to the development of stereotypical and abnormal behaviour.

    Environmental enrichment is defined as “the modification of a captive environment to improve the biological function of animals” (Newberry 1995). Many studies have investigated the importance of environmental enrichment on horse health and welfare.  The following mechanisms can be implemented to improve horse welfare when stabled.

    Forage – it is well known that stabled horse should be provided with hay to replace foraging behaviour, but there is now evidence to suggest that providing many different types of hay improves horse welfare, and reduces abnormal and stereotypical behaviour.

    Stable design – the use of a window or lower stable walls allow horses to express their normal behaviours of environmental monitoring and social interaction, while also providing visual enrichment.

    Brushes – attached to the stable wall or a pole – these allow horses to exhibit their normal grooming behaviour, like they would scratch on a tree in the paddock

    Novel objects – the use of balls and ropes, while not addressing the underlying problem , do allow horses to redirect their stereotypical behaviour towards the object. In Summer, carrots, berries and other horse safe treats can be frozen as a solid ice block and given for enrichment.

  • By Dr Ellie Merritt
    As we near the end of the year, the holiday planning begins and it’s only natural that we consider taking our furry friends along for the adventure too! There are a few things you should consider when preparing for a trip with your ultiMUTT friend.

    A RUFF holiday
    If your pet is new to the family, or not an experienced traveller, consider starting with short trips away to gain their confidence and comfort in the car and with new experiences.
    Like us, some pets don’t enjoy adventures, and that’s okay. If you think your pet will be anxious or stressed on a holiday, consider leaving them at home and having a friend or family member take care of them.

    Put the car in bark
    For their safety and yours, and because it’s a legal requirement, you must have your pet restrained while in a moving vehicle. There are some very nifty harness seat-belt combinations available from pet stores which work well to keep your furry friend restrained. A crate can also be utilized but should be small enough to prevent the dog from being injured if an accident were to occur.

    Before you emBARK on your journey
    Your pet is likely to encounter lots of other furry friends while out and about, and also the fun bugs they leave behind! Ensure your pet is up to date with their vaccinations at least one month prior to heading off on your holiday. This is important not only to offer them the protection they need, but also if you need to put your dog into a boarding facility while away.

    Parasite Prevention Dogs can play host to a number of intestinal parasites, and they don’t even have to meet another dog to pick them up.  We recommend administering a de-worming treatment to your pet prior to your departure to ensure they remain in good health and to reduce the spread of intestinal parasites. Tasmania require dogs to have been administered a hydatid treatment at least 14 days prior to entry to the state.

    Paralysis ticks are commonly found in coastal areas and some bushland and their toxin cause life threatening paralysis of the respiratory and skeletal muscles. Fortunately, parasite prevention such as Bravecto or Nexgard Spectra are effective in producing long lasting protection against ticks. Some ticks can carry blood borne parasites, therefore we recommend the use of a tick repellent collar such as a Soresto collar, in addition to Bravecto or Nexgard Spectra.

    Heartworm is a worm that is spread by mosquitoes and causes potentially fatal disease. Many people incorrectly assume that an intestinal worming treatment will also protect against heartworm, but not all parasite prevention products offer heartworm prevention. Heartworm prevention can be administered as a monthly treatment or annual injection. If administering a monthly treatment, it is important to read the directions closely, as most ‘monthly’ preventions need to be given every 28 days.

    Plan your adventure to a new LEASH on life!
    Your pet will require frequent stops to stretch, toilet and relax a little. Plan your trip to include frequent, pet friendly stops and stay overs.
    Remember, never leave your pet unattended at a camp site or in the car, even for a few minutes. Dogs and cats can overheat in a very short period of time, and get nervous in a new environment.
    Happy Howlidays!

  • This is one of the times of year that we often see cases of colic in horses. Colic simply means abdominal pain. Horses with colic can show a variety of symptoms, ranging from pawing at the ground and watching their flank, to lathering up in a sweat and throwing themselves upon the ground, rolling violently.

    There are many different causes of colic, which is why it is always best to have a colicy horse examined by a vet as soon as possible in order to differentiate a mild spasmodic colic from a life threatening twisted gut.  One of the reasons we seen an increase in colic around now is that the fresh shoots of green grass after the rain are quite attractive to horses, and sometimes they can end up eating a significant amount of dirt and sand along with the new grass. Some horses may ingest large amounts of sand and never colic. But other horses can develop a spasmodic discomfort, diarrhea or weight loss from the irritation caused by the sand passing through the intestine. Sand may also build up in the gut over time, slowing digestion and causing impaction of the intestine.

    The best way to prevent sand colic is to ensure your horse doesn’t ingest too much sand or dirt in the first place. Use hay nets or racks, and place rubber matting under them to catch the hay that inevitably falls out. Where possible, avoid keeping horses in overgrazed paddocks, and always ensure clean fresh water is always available.

    If your horse does suffer from episodes of sand colic, feeding a high fibre diet can be helpful to move the sand through the intestine. Free access to large amounts of grass hay works best. If this isn’t possible, psyllium husk added to feed may be useful – around a cup a day for a week, and then repeat a month later. Older remedies such as feeding wheat bran and drenching with mineral oil have been shown to be ineffective at removing sand.

  • With the cooler nights lately, we are seeing an influx of pets showing signs of arthritis. Dogs may present with intermittent lameness or stiffness which is worse after sleep or rest, especially after a cold night.  Often they will at least partly warm out of it as the day progresses. In more advanced cases owners may notice loss of muscle of the limbs or back.

    Cats with arthritis show more subtle signs: Owners may notice them becoming less active, not wanting to jump, hiding away more, becoming irritable, or grooming themselves less.

    Arthritis (also known as osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease) is a progressive degeneration of the joints with loss of the protective cartilage, changes in the bone, thickening of the connective tissue around the joint, inflammation and pain. It can be age related, or a result of trauma or poor joint alignment. 60% of dogs and 22% of cats have evidence of arthritis on x-rays. This percentage increases with age.

    Arthritis is incurable and worsens with time. However, there are steps which can be taken to slow the progression of joint damage and provide relief of pain.

    In mild cases, we tend to recommend first trying chondroprotectants, otherwise known as joint supplements. They slow the breakdown of cartilage, and/or provide the building blocks to help build it. Some also decrease joint fluid secretion and inflammation. The oral forms include glucosamine, chondroitin or green lipped muscle, and can be given as capsules, or granules/powders to add to the food. The injectable forms (such as cartrophen) provide a faster and longer-lasting effect. The injections are given once a week for four weeks running and generally provide improvement for at least three months.

    In moderate cases, we recommend a combination of chondroprotectants and oral non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs). NSAIDs (such as meloxicam) are very effective at relieving pain and inflammation, and can make a big difference in the quality of life for pets with arthritis.

    In severe cases there may be too little cartilage remaining in the affected joints for chondroprotectants to have an effect. In these pets we generally use a combination of NSAIDs and other analgesic drugs.

    Weight control is an important part of arthritis management as excess body weight increases the stress on joints. There are low energy prescription diets available which can help with weight loss. Low impact exercise such as walking and swimming can also be very helpful, both with weight loss and to improve joint mobility and strengthen muscles.

  • During droughts, and in the period after a drought breaks, are when we commonly see cases of stringhalt in horses. Stringhalt is when horses show a prolonged, exaggerated hindlimb flexion (a characteristic gait where the hind leg jerks sharply upwards) during forward or backward movement.

    We don’t completely understand the cause of stringhalt, but it is thought to be due to a plant-derived neurotoxin, and is associated with poor quality, drought affected pastures and the presence of Hypochoeris radicata (known as Flatweed, False Dandelion or Catsear). It will commonly affect multiple animals in the same paddock at the same time. It happens more often in mature horses, particularly those that are taller. A stringhalt type gait affecting only a single hindlimb can also occur following injury to the hock region.

    Most cases of stringhalt recover spontaneously once they are removed from the causative pasture. However, some horses with stringhalt have a prolonged recovery, some taking several years, and the occasional one never recovers completely. Horses with prolonged symptoms are suspected to be cases where the toxic insult has been prolonged, causing sometimes permanent changes to the nerves and muscles of the hindlimbs.

    There are a number of treatments which have been attempted in horses with stringhalt, including various medications, supplements, and even surgery. However, the effectiveness of these treatments is unknown since controlled trials have never been performed, and the spontaneous recovery of the majority of cases makes any response to treatment difficult to interpret.

    The most important treatment of a horse with stringhalt is to remove it from the inciting pasture immediately, and feed hay instead. The sooner this can be done, the more likely and swift recovery is likely to be.